El Placer de los Ojos
En una copa incolora, indispensable para apreciar los distintos matices del vino, examinamos en primer lugar su color y aspecto. Se ve brillante, resplandeciente o al contrario mate o velado.
El color de los vinos tintos cambia con el pasar de los años de un rojo violáceo hacia tonos púrpuras, rubí, bermellón, y que a su vez se vuelven ambarinos y finalmente atejados.
Los vinos blancos pueden ser de color amarillo muy pálido o más sostenido, matiz limón, reflejos dorados, o casi verdes.Al envejecer, estos vinos de larga guarda son de color oro viejo o cobrizo.
Al girarlo lentamente en la copa, el vino deja en las paredes piernas o lagrimas que afirman la presencia de glicerol (un constituyente natural) que ofrece untuosidad y redondez, o bien de azúcar residual como en los grandes vinos blancos de Sauternes o de Touraine.
En una copa flauta de espumante,los ojos se regocijan y brillan ante los millones de finas burbujas que se desprenden o forman un collar de perlas sobre el nivel del liquido: el seductor perlage.
Es aconsejable, evitar la sugestion de la vista para anticipar juicios sobre la calidad de un vino.deberiamos cerrar los ojos para leer a ciegas el aroma y el sabor de los buenos vinos.
Aromas y Bouquet
Un vino se descubre primero por su “nariz” o sea por sus aromas, florales o frutales en función de los perfumes dominantes. En los blancos encontramos ananá, manzana, membrillo, mango, pomelo rosado en el caso de los Sauvignon, y el olor a pan tostado y miel en los Chardonay mas maduros. Los tintos a veces florales, son habitualmente frutados: bayas rojas o negras caracterizan la juventud.
El paso sereno por barricas de roble, le otorga sabores complejos de vainilla,caramelo, coco, regaliz, ahumados y especiados.
La crianza en botella funde, en el tiempo,los sabores frutales y madera transformándose luego en “bouquet”, el encanto de los vinos maduros en los cuales uno encuentra notables aromas de nueces, tabaco, trufas, de cuero y de caza. Para descubrir todas estas sensaciones, la copa debe ser ligeramente cerrada en su diámetro superior como una flor de tulipan.
Las Revelaciones del Gusto
La estructura: el vino se califica de caliente o se dice que quema cuando es muy alcohólico. La acidez y los taninos conforman el nervio, el cuerpo, que puede ser liviano, caso frecuente de los tintos muy jóvenes, o amplio, rico, sólido, generoso, o armonioso cuando todo se transforma en una redondez agradable, típica de las grandes añadas o de los vinos muy maduros.
La duración en boca significa la persistencia gustativa en las papilas. El sentido del tacto registra la armonía y el buen paso del vino por la boca. Los vinos que conviene beber mientras jóvenes, son ligeramente ácidos, frescos, livianos, vivos y nerviosos.
Los vinos de guarda se califican de duros, astringentes en los primeros años, para luego ablandarse y dar entonces lo mejor de si mismos. La fineza y la agradabilidad de un buen vino es la sumatoria de las delicadas sensaciones que percibe cada uno de los sentidos.
El post-gusto es una sensación final que define la calidad del vino,cuando èste invita al degustador o comensal a repetir otro sorbo o trago .Cuando el vino no invita a un segundo trago, seguramente tiene aristas de poco bueno o mediocre.
Por ello con el vino, no conviene hacer improvisados prologos , sino celebrar grandes corolarios cuando es bueno y lo confirman los amigos y seres queridos.
El sentido del oido tambien es protagonista
En el mundo de los gourmet no videntes, la fina sensibilidad del oido les permite distinguir si el vino que le sirven en la copa, es blanco o tinto, por la intensidad del golpe en el cristal cuando lo sirven.
Con el oido, tambien aprendemos los secretos de la degustación, al escuchar a un experto de vinos cuando nos enseña las fases de la catacion. El sonido del destape de una botella, nos permite distinguir la calidad de tapado, en vinos tranquilos o espumosos.
Pero lo mas excitante del oido, es sentir el golpe de cristales y el deseo de SALUD, en el brindis inicial, antes de beber vino en compañía de seres queridos. Este acto sublime nos prepara sicológicamente a disfrutar mejor de esta bebiba milenaria, y en el radica los efectos saludables de un consumo inteligente de vinos.
Lo aburrido de este sentido, es la intensa subjetividad que predispone, cada vez que un apresurado amante de vinos, se adelanta a emitir juicios orales, en cada estimulo del vino, incluso sin haberlo probado. Esto sugestiona a toda la reunion, y muchas veces provoca un juicio generalizado sobre la calidad del vino, que a veces no es real. Por ello, la mejor degustación debe hacerse en silencio, lo mas alejado de pseudo-expertos que arruinan todo. Sólo es un gran degustador aquel que define al vino en la segunda copa. Los que lo hacen antes solo son aficionados mal enseñados.
Lic.en Enologia Angel A.Mendoza
27 de julio de 2006
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Por la década del '80, en épocas de vinos finos de mesa, Ángel Mendoza apuesta junto a otros visionarios como Raúl de la Mota, Roberto Luka o los Toso, al varietal Malbec, hoy insignia de la vitivinicultura Argentina. Era en ese momento Enólogo Maestro de Trapiche, lugar que ocupó en la centenaria firma por 25 años.
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